Slowly falling in love with Jil Sander again. Incoming creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga showed his debut for SS15 and I really like the youthful, school uniformness of the stiff shirting, wrap skirts and cool colour palette.
Someone in Bon magazine (Yasmin Sewell I think) said a while ago that they doubted the relevance of Sander now that other brands have stepped into the Sander space (Celine, The Row). But this younger take could appeal to a new customer, and I always like to support the underdog… Continue reading
Will we ever tire of buying shoes? Judging by the last few years, it would appear our appetites are bigger than ever. Each shiny new footwear department (some big enough to have their own postcode), mall and ecom site just opens up more possibility, choice and downright longing.
The answer to the question “why do we still need fashion shows?” was answered succinctly on Monday with Thomas Tait’s powerpacked, techno-soundtracked stomper of a show. Fashion shows need emotion, energy and feeling in order to express something these days, the clothes are only part of the story. And so Tait created tension and anticipation in his concrete box of a location, with walls painted in collaboration with artist Georges Rousse setting an intriguing scene. Continue reading
London designers are known for their youthful experimentation but they’ve becoming equally adept at delivering polished wearability. Day two’s highlights included Lucas Nascimento’s sheer, precision-cut layers (above and below), Joseph’s serene sportswear and Whistles’ luxe leather separates.
Even J.W Anderson surprised with extreme commerciality on his catwalk (combined with clever creativity of course), giving us that spring perennial ‘nautical chic’ his way, involving strategic cut-outs and rope details all accessorised with fetishy floppy leather hats. Continue reading
London Fashion Week kicked off with two buzzy new names. Faustine Steinmetz showed as part of New Gen with her first presentation, a clever exploration of couture and branding, set in the suitably arty ICA.
I’m so impressed by this young designer, whose obsession for hands-on labour and figuring things out results in mind boggling textile experiments. On display were denim-look jackets of polyester styled out like Shibori (“It’s not Shibori at all! I actually handpainted it, I just like that look,” Steinmetz told me), and a jeans-n-jacket combo made from unravelled layers of upcycled denim creating a tufty fringe effect. Continue reading
Here’s the latest ‘Ask Alison’ post from retail expert and DRG contributor, ALISON BISHOP who unpacks her physical-meets-digital findings so far from the SS15 fashion show season…
The fashion show is dead. Long live the interactive, digital brand experience now taking place during New York and London fashion weeks, where consumers, influencers and their collective social media clout are the preferred global audience. Continue reading
I can’t normally abide hanky hems, but I’m making an exception for these divine mermaid silhouettes at Rodarte. Also… those bonkers boots!
As usual, the casting, hair, makeup and attitude is spot on. The classic all-American make-up and hair with those busy outfits. The pierced eyebrows!. Continue reading
I’m not all that familiar with Tim Coppens‘ work but I liked what I saw of his SS15 womenswear at NYFW. A little bit Wang, a little bit Tait, it’s continuing on the sports-luxe tip (that’s clearly got plenty of mileage yet) and looks luxurious, technically advanced and just commercial enough. Continue reading
Oh, what a busy year it’s proving to be for London’s Dover Street Market. This month marks its tenth year and to celebrate it’s doing what it does best, collaborating with its fashion friends to create more retail excitement than ever.
Let’s not forget, when Dover Street Market opened in 2004 it was the first store of its kind, a weird and wonderful melange of mega-brands, just-emerging designers and street wear – ever changing and always unpredictable. Twice a year it operates its ‘tachiagari‘, shutting up shop for three days while it installs a completely new vision for the new season.
This year, following its tachiagari in July, it’s shaken things up again by adding a scattering of ‘market stalls’ (complete with striped awnings) selling DSM souvenirs to delight the store’s avid retail tourists. Continue reading
Bella Freud certainly knows how to pick her collaborators. Recent years have seen her work with Christian Louboutin and Barbour and the latest is Fred Perry. You never feel like she has compromised her aesthetic for a quick buck and I think that’s something to be respected in these collab-a-minute times.
Here’s the Bella Freud X Fred Perry AW14 collection, it’s a timely rude girl inspired collection of snug-fitting pique polo shirts, sweater dresses, slogan sweaters (of course) and darling little berets. Continue reading