Dior and I: watch the trailer

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

I’ve just watched a screening of the Dior and I movie, the documentary directed by Frédéric Tcheng which comes out on 27th March (in the UK). Following Raf Simons as he creates his first ever Dior collection in just eight weeks (a couture one, no less), it’s a tense and insightful look at Simons’ creative approach and process as he steps into the lead role at Paris’s most iconic fashion house.

It’s a very human and beautiful film. Raf is a sensitive guy and we see him building relationships with his atelier teams while navigating a whole new world of couture. There are creative pressures as this uncompromising designer attempts to achieve the impossible, such as reimagining a Sterling Ruby painting woven in Bucol duchesse satin. And there are PR pressures as all attention is focused on him, while this private, camera-shy designer would really rather let the work do the talking.

I’m quite surprised he agreed to do this film, considering the intimacy of the scenes, some very dramatic and extremely emotional. Those scenes are, of course, the best ones, in which we feel his anxieties and triumphs. Sharing the limelight are his right hand, Pieter Mulier and the atelier heads and seamstresses who are like a family. And cleverly threading the narrative together is a voiceover dialogue from Mr Christian Dior himself, in which his experiences and observations seem to echo Raf’s.

My favourite scene is the one where we see Raf and Dior’s PR chief talking a few moments before the couture collection is unveiled to the expectant press and photographers. I won’t spill the beans but will just say, take tissues, you’ll need them.

Words: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl

Thoughts on the new Gucci

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Gucci Aw15

Is Gucci about to have a Saint Laurent moment? Remember the brouhaha at first sighting of Hedi’s womenswear debut? It wasn’t pretty. (The reaction I mean, I liked the clothes.) The reaction was similarly confused when new Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele first showed his menswear collection in January. It was so removed from heritage Gucci, sexy Tom Ford Gucci or sophisticated Frida Giannini Gucci that lots of hands were wrung.

I think it’s promising though. To me it’s youthful-spirited, next-gen Gucci and I can’t wait to see it worn by the creative, bright young things (and bright old things) it’s meant for. Luxury isn’t what it used to be in terms of exclusivity, but in terms of craft and quality, all the elements should be there. I really want to see this close up so I can judge for myself but in the meantime, reviews have been mostly positive. Early signs suggest that this could be turnaround time for Gucci…
Gucci Aw15
Gucci Aw15
Gucci Aw15
Gucci Aw15
Gucci Aw15

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
Images: WWD; Style.com

Tanya Ling X Queene & Belle

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Tanya ling cashmere for Queene & Belle

Tanya Ling is quite the lady of the moment. She has long been on my radar for her ravishing illustrations of Vuitton’s collections, she has an addictive Instagram feed and a giant assemblage of her line paintings is the sight that greets you on entering Alex Eagle’s inspiring new lifestyle store in South Kensington. Her mixed media work can also currently be seen in her exhibition Sculptures at Darbyshire Framemakers, 19-23 White Lion Street, N1.

And now the art is wearable too. Ling has joined forces with cashmere brand Queene & Belle to produce an offering of made to order knitwear pieces (from £868) featuring Ling’s signature wiggly lines all made in the Hawick factory using local yarns. I love how she couldn’t resist painting over the photo below to turn the press shot into a work of art as well….

Tanya Ling for Queene & Belle
Tanya-Ling-Queene-and-Belle  funnel neck 2
Tanya Ling for Queene & Belle
Tanya Ling for Queene & Belle
Tanya Ling for Queene & Belle

Tanya Ling’s cashmere collection for Queene & Belle is available to order from Tanyaling.com and QueeneandBelle.com (allow 4-7 weeks for delivery)

THE DRG STYLE INDEX: BYREDO BAGS, SOPHIA WEBSTER, RODARTE X SUPERGA, HARVEY NICHOLS’ SNEAKER CONCEPT

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Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…

1. BYREDO BAGS ARE COMING
Byredo bagsWho doesn’t love Byredo? The scents, the packaging, the whole brand concept. This Spring, founder Ben Gorham is extending the brand into its first retail store and launching leathergoods. Of the leather line, called Byredo Nécessaire de Voyage, Gorham says, “Leather kept coming up in historical contexts tied to perfume. The first people to sell perfume were gantiers, who scented the gloves they made. It makes sense to me. We’ll see how much sense it makes to other people.” The Byredo bags are being stocked at Barneys and the store will open in New York’s Wooster Street in April.


2. SOPHIA WEBSTER THE COLLABORATION QUEEN

sophiw webster collaborates with Gooey on tech cases
Sophia Webster is so on point with her collaborations. At LFW, camera phones went crazy for her Coca Cola collab which themes her goodtime-girl bags and shoes in the jazzed-up Coke colourway. Meanwhile, how about this collaboration with Gooey tech cases? The iPhone and iPad mini cases have Webster’s conversational graphics emblazoned on them and are designed to stick to shiny glass and metal surfaces, leaving hands free. They’re available exclusively at Selfridges until March 15th, or from the Goo.ey site from March 16th.


3. RODARTE X SUPERGA

Superga and Rodarte collaborste on capsule sneaker line
Rodarte + Superga = two words you wouldn’t immediately put together. But they make rather cosy companions in the latest capsule collab from Superga. With six styles, featuring a graphic lattice print mixed with denim or tweed, they’re modelled in the press pics by fellow L.A. fashionphile, Gia Coppola. At the moment it looks like they’re only available on the US Superga site, buy them here.


4. HARVEY NICHOLS UNVEILS ITS SNEAKER DESTINATION

Harvey Nichols The Sneaker Concept space dedicated to high fashion trainers

In other sneaker news, some are claiming we have reached ‘peak sneak’ as Fashionista reports on the waning of trainer appeal. Harvey Nichols begs to differ though. The store has invested heavily in the sports shoe craze, with  the launch this week of ‘The Sneaker Concept‘, a retail space dedicated to designer kicks. Choose from over 120 of the most desirable styles from fashion and sportswear brands including Acne, Y-3, Adidas and Common Projects. Here are a few of my picks…

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
BYREDO IMAGE: Gustav Almestal/Wall Street Journal

London fashion week AW15: designers with a 360-degree view

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Toga aw15 london fashion week

For someone who pretty much lives in Levi’s and jumpers I’m weirdly drawn to multi-textured and multi-layered dressing. Especially when it’s expertly and poetically styled. This must explain my attraction to LFW designers Toga and Phoebe English, both of whom have secured a well deserved spot on the presentation schedule in recent seasons.

Toga‘s presentations are great because they’re staged really beautifully with models on plinths so you can go up close for a proper look. The styling is always impeccable with this Japanese brand, whose bags and shoes have as much cult status as the clothes. Continue reading

THE LFW want list: Margaret Howell and Paul Smith AW15

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

1 Margaret-Howell-aw15-London-Fashion-weekThis season’s London Fashion Week was big on straight-to-consumer ‘buy it now’ thinking. But typically, when you really need to buy it now, there’s no such tech to be seen. Ahhh I know, first world blogger probs, eh?

Both Margaret Howell and Paul Smith AW15 really did have lots of things that I’m gagging for in my wardrobe right now. Continue reading

London Fashion Week AW15: let’s hear it for the girls

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Shrimps Hannah Weiland Aw15

In these days of Insta-journalism, a fanciful theme is a gift to the time poor and attention-deficit. It helps tell the story of a collection which is what selling clothes is all about. And our young female designers are particularly adept at it.

On the first day of London Fashion Week, we saw evocative tableaux styled as an art class and a gossipy teen gathering courtesy of Molly Goddard and Le Kilt respectively. Meanwhile, Shrimps gave us beautifully vacant aliens landed on a glittery planet surrounded by stalagmites. Continue reading

Ask Alison: On fashion weeks, double screening and the importance of influencer clicks

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Burberry-X-Line- emoji-London-Fashion-Week

Here’s the latest ‘Ask Alison’ guest post from retail expert and DRG contributor, ALISON BISHOP, on how brands are using new social strategies to monetise fashion week

Fashion month has kicked off and already the digerati style-set are hot on the heels of the latest ‘influencers’ and their preferred social media platforms. As fashion designers, media publishers, retailers and luxury brands all assess their ROI (return on investment) across social media spend, it’s influencer clicks and double-screening activities that are driving digital trends this season. Continue reading

DKNY AW15

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DKNY aw15

Dream coats (and trousers, sweaters and dresses) at DKNY AW15. This has to be my favourite DKNY collection in years. The hair, make-up, colour palette and styling (Donna said this is for the ‘ageless working woman‘) are perfect… Continue reading

THE DRG STYLE INDEX: THE ROW, APPLE X PINTEREST, STOWAWAY, MIH JEANS

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…

1. THE ROW’S UPTOWN MOVEThe Row to open a New York store in 2015
Coming not-quite soon: The Row has earmarked a store for New York. OK, it’s not due til the end of the year, but I’m sure the Upper East Side townhouse store will be worth waiting for… Continue reading

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