Why have a show? That’s the 64 million dollar question that continues to circulate fashion week season after season. The answer is still elusive – is it an industry insider event or a public spectacle? – but I think if you’re going to have a show, make it a show. Make some element of it surprising, delightful, emotional, weird or thought provoking. It’s not like there isn’t a ton of options at your disposal. There’s the set, the music, the choreography. Or the casting, styling, make up…take your pick.
Carven’s Paris show was staged at the elegant Galerie Des Gobelins – a collection of youthful tailoring with collage-y placements and crystal embroidery that nodded to the art of Man Ray and Blumenfeld. Continue reading
“People get this very romantic vision of a fashion designer who in one night makes 25 sketches and in the morning throws them on the table and there are a lot of women in white aprons with the pins on the lapel and they start to grab the sketches and… It’s not like that. Forget it! It’s lists, it’s computers, it’s meetings, it’s planning, it’s organising. It’s all these things.”
Dries Van Noten, The Telegraph
I can’t wait to see Dries Van Noten: Inspiration at Les Arts Décoratifs in Paris this weekend!
[Image: The Guardian]
The final day of London Fashion Week was all about youthful ideals and teen romance, kicking off at 9am with Marques’Almeida. This duo has slowly and steadily built an appealing aesthetic that riffs on tattered-edged insousiance of a bygone kind. While earlier collections were rooted in nineties grunge, AW14 takes its essence from New York’s Chelsea Hotel and its famous 1970s inhabitants. The models’ Patti Smith-style bird’s nest hair matched the fuzzy furry stoles and shoes, while the colour palette was surprisingly upbeat – complemented by primary-coloured MAC paint ringing the eyes. Continue reading
Day four is when things properly take shape at LFW with the heavy hitters showing the fruits of their labour. Alongside the international heavyweights Burberry Prorsum and Tom Ford, we had two newbies on the schedule. Blue Farrier made her debut as creative director of Issa London, while Maia Norman’s Mother Of Pearl presented at the ICA. Continue reading
Two days into London Fashion Week and, as with New York, the arctic temperatures are having a definite impact. Not just in what the guests have been wearing at Somerset House (rain ponchos and fur trims outstrip open toes), but on the runway itself. Continue reading
New York Fashion Week is in full swing and London editors are gearing up for LFW which is three days away. With IMG and various New York designers rethinking their blogger strategy, the conversation continues to rage around the current and future role of fashion weeks and their associated ‘circus’.
I took part in a panel discussion on this very subject a couple of weeks ago with WGSN. We did it as a live Google Hangout and the panel also included Quynh Mai, founder of digital agency Moving Image & Content, WGSN’s senior arts editor Elle Hankinson, Fashionista’s editor-in-chief Lauren Indvik, and was hosted by WGSN’s senior digital media editor, Rachel Arthur. Continue reading
Jewelled cigarette cases, necessaires, cigarette cases, necessaires… Cartier could quite easily have staged its Cartier: Style and History exhibition at Paris’s Grand Palais around these stunning, opulent objects alone. A historic display of around 600 pieces, most from the Cartier archive, it comprises grand tiaras from the world’s royalty (both regal and Hollywood), epic jewels, and magical timepieces, alongside original sketches, plaster moulds, photos and ledgers. Continue reading
I do love the wearability of Louis Vuitton’s Icons collections. Devoid of the drama of the RTW collections, these pieces have a lasting usefuless that also transcends seasons. To emphasise that point, inspiration is taken from architect and designer Charlotte Perriand, both the woman herself (timeless black-and-white portraits of her in sportif mode dotted a showroom wall at the press day) and her modernist furniture and interiors. Continue reading
We’re not even two weeks in and it’s already shaping up to be another good year for sneaker heads.
First, the surprise appearance of trainers (in thrice waxed leather or white velvet!) at Tom Ford’s AW14 menswear presentation. In fact the whole Tom Ford collection was casualised (below), so posh trainers aren’t too out of place…
Ohhhh how adorable are these Peter Jensen pre-fall lookbook pics? I don’t know who Sunny von Bülow was but she seems like my type of girl – from her natty knits and sweats (absolutely need a sweatshirt with ‘Sunny’ on it in my life) to her double-strap demi-wedges and wonky wig… Continue reading