THE DRG STYLE INDEX: THE CORNER, PORTS 1961, LVMH PRIZE, MARC BY MARC JACOBS

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Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…


1. PORTS 1961 GETS A REFRESH

Ports 1961 aw15 by new creative director Natasa Cagalj

I was invited to the Ports 1961 press day last week to see the debut womenswear collection by new creative director Natasa Cagalj. The brand is undergoing a bit of a reinvention thanks to Cagalj, who is set on delivering wearable, adaptable wardrobe solutions for women. She’s doing this with fantastic coats, jackets and shirts that have a little bit of masculinity in their tailored construction but not too much. I also loved her styling. She has paired these cool, intelligent pieces with idiosyncratic footwear and hats, such as the knotty skate shoes (‘a nod to Romeo Gigli’) above. These early prototype samples got a lot of love on my Instagram.


2. THE CORNER GOES GENDER NEUTRAL

The Corner introduces gender neutral section on its site

So the Selfridges ‘Agender’ effect is seeping through to other areas of retail already. Ecommerce site, The Corner has announced that from June it will incorporate a gender-neutral section on its site. Called “No Gender”, it will sell non-gender-specific pieces from brands including Rick Owens, Rad Hourani, Hood by Air and Ann Demeulemeester.


3. FAUSTINE STEINMETZ AND MARQUES’ALMEIDA IN LINE FOR LVMH FASHION PRIZE

Faustine Steinmetz Aw15 by Disneyrollergirl

Major news from the LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize. London has scored very well with three out of eight candidates in the final lineup (why does this feel like Eurovision?!). Congrats to Faustine Steinmetz (above), Marques’Almeida and Craig Green, whose singular visions, creativity and business nous have done them proud in a hugely competitive market. Here’s my first piece on Faustine from 2013.


4. MARC BY MARC JACOBS IN JEOPARDY?

Marc By Marc Jacobs -photo via Dazed  Lea Colombo

Rumours are swirling that Marc By Marc Jacobs is being killed off, or rather, folded into the main Marc Jacobs line. According to WWD’s Bridget Foley, it’s a cost cutting exercise in preparation for the impending IPO. But where will it leave Luella Bartley and Katie Hiller?

WORDS: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl
MARC BY MARC JACOBS IMAGE: DAZED by LEA COLOMBO

Fashion, design and photography things to see and do

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Al Vandenberg On A Good Day

With Easter coming up (doesn’t it always creep up on you?!), now is the time to plan and book tickets for some must-see events. Apologies if some of the following suggestions are already oversubscribed, I honestly don’t know where the time is going….

BATH IN FASHION 21ST-29TH MARCH
This starts on Saturday and sees nine days of fashion goings-on in one of Britain’s most stylish towns. Now in its sixth year, the Bath In Fashion programme includes Grazia’s Susannah Frankel in conversation with Style.com’s Tim Blanks discussing the V&A’s Savage Beauty exhibition; friend of DRG, Alyson Walsh (A.K.A That’s Not My Age) giving a talk on generation FAB (Fifty And Beyond) and signing copies of her book Style Forever; a button making workshop at Anthropologie, plus Susie Lau co-hosting a fashion careers forum. That’s just a tiny taster of a quite dizzying array of diverse activity. Book tickets for Bath In Fashion here.

PIERO FORNASETTI: LA FOLIE PRATIQUE UNTIL 14TH JUNE
In Paris, a brand new exhibition has just opened at Musée des Arts Décoratifs celebrating the astonishing output of Piero Fornasetti. This looks incredible. However much you think you know of the prolific artist and designer, there’s so so much more. As always, it’s the sketchy, scrappy ephemera and contextual stuff that fascinates me and it looks like this exhibition delivers all that in spades. Luckily it’s on til June 14th so there’s a good chance I’ll get to see it. Book tickets here.

STAYING POWER: PHOTOGRAPHS OF BLACK BRITISH EXPERIENCE 1950s-1990s UNTIL 24TH MAY
Closer to home, obviously there’s Savage Beauty at the V&A (pictured top) which has been extended to 2nd August. If you’re going to that (and even if you’re not), don’t forget to check into Staying Power: Photographs of Black British Experience 1950s-1990s. This free exhibition looks at black British culture explored through expressions of fashion and style. Everything in it is great but I particularly homed in on Raphael Albert’s reportage photos of black beauty pageants in the 60s and 70s, and Neil Kenlock’s 1970s portraits of Caribbean Londoners at home. The details are evocative and quite nostalgia inducing. To accompany the photography, there are headphones to listen to oral histories of the photographers and subjects – don’t miss these!

NICK WAPLINGTON/ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: WORKING PROCESS UNTIL 17TH MAY
Coinciding with Savage Beauty is this, totally different, look at the work of Alexander McQueen which has just opened at Tate Britain. McQueen commissioned his friend Waplington to document the making of his Horn Of Plenty collection (one of his last) and the results are gobsmacking. You really feel like you’re in the studio with the team, witnessing the magical moments of creation. I’ve only seen the photos in the exhibition’s accompanying book so I’m looking forward to seeing them larger than life. There’s a very good video of Waplington talking about his work here. Buy tickets here.

VOGUE FESTIVAL AT THE RCA 25TH-26TH APRIL
Vogue Festival (in association with Harrods) has come round again, a little later this year on 25th-26th April. It’s at a different venue too at the Royal College of Art and the Royal Geographical Society nearby. How on earth do they keep finding new ‘wow’ speakers year on year? Well this year has John Galliano, Stella Tennant, Tim Walker (for the second time) and Quentin Jones on the roster – I’m pretty happy with that. This year’s Vogue Festival will also host ‘How To Be’ career master classes , offering the opportunity for one-on-one face time with leading industry heavyweights giving insights into becoming a fashion journalist, fashion editor, photographer or editor. Book tickets here.

WORDS: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl
Main photo: Al Vandenberg/V&A Staying Power exhibition

Top 5 styling moments from Dior AW15

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Dior RTW Fall Winter 2015 Paris

The verdict on Dior AW15 is that these highly commercial RTW pieces wll fly off the rails. I’m quite taken with the accessories and beauty direction too. Here are my favourite styling elements…

1.WALKING-ON-AIR BOOTS
These ankle gripping boots with Lucite heels were unmissable, giving the illusion of walking on air. Continue reading

THE DRG STYLE INDEX: CARVEN, UNIQLO X LEMAIRE, DAMIR DOMA, ANOTHER MAGAZINE

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Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…

1. ALEXIS MARTIAL TO CARVEN
Carven aw15
I loved what Alexis Martial did at Iceberg so I’ll be interested to see how he develops Carven. This week we heard that Martial and Adran Caillaudaud (most recently at Givenchy) are the new co artistic directors at Carven, with Martial focusing on RTW and Caillaudaud on accessories. Continue reading

Dior and I: watch the trailer

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I’ve just watched a screening of the Dior and I movie, the documentary directed by Frédéric Tcheng which comes out on 27th March (in the UK). Following Raf Simons as he creates his first ever Dior collection in just eight weeks (a couture one, no less), it’s a tense and insightful look at Simons’ creative approach and process as he steps into the lead role at Paris’s most iconic fashion house.

It’s a very human and beautiful film. Continue reading

Thoughts on the new Gucci

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Gucci Aw15

Is Gucci about to have a Saint Laurent moment? Remember the brouhaha at first sighting of Hedi’s womenswear debut? It wasn’t pretty. (The reaction I mean, I liked the clothes.) The reaction was similarly confused when new Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele first showed his menswear collection in January. It was so removed from heritage Gucci, sexy Tom Ford Gucci or sophisticated Frida Giannini Gucci that lots of hands were wrung. Continue reading

Tanya Ling X Queene & Belle

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Tanya ling cashmere for Queene & Belle

Tanya Ling is quite the lady of the moment. She has long been on my radar for her ravishing illustrations of Vuitton’s collections, she has an addictive Instagram feed and a giant assemblage of her line paintings is the sight that greets you on entering Alex Eagle’s inspiring new lifestyle store in South Kensington. Continue reading

THE DRG STYLE INDEX: BYREDO BAGS, SOPHIA WEBSTER, RODARTE X SUPERGA, HARVEY NICHOLS’ SNEAKER CONCEPT

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…

1. BYREDO BAGS ARE COMING
Byredo bagsWho doesn’t love Byredo? The scents, the packaging, the whole brand concept. This Spring, founder Ben Gorham is extending the brand into its first retail store and launching leathergoods. Continue reading

London fashion week AW15: designers with a 360-degree view

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Toga aw15 london fashion week

For someone who pretty much lives in Levi’s and jumpers I’m weirdly drawn to multi-textured and multi-layered dressing. Especially when it’s expertly and poetically styled. This must explain my attraction to LFW designers Toga and Phoebe English, both of whom have secured a well deserved spot on the presentation schedule in recent seasons.

Toga‘s presentations are great because they’re staged really beautifully with models on plinths so you can go up close for a proper look. The styling is always impeccable with this Japanese brand, whose bags and shoes have as much cult status as the clothes. Continue reading

THE LFW want list: Margaret Howell and Paul Smith AW15

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1 Margaret-Howell-aw15-London-Fashion-weekThis season’s London Fashion Week was big on straight-to-consumer ‘buy it now’ thinking. But typically, when you really need to buy it now, there’s no such tech to be seen. Ahhh I know, first world blogger probs, eh?

Both Margaret Howell and Paul Smith AW15 really did have lots of things that I’m gagging for in my wardrobe right now. Continue reading

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