THE DRG STYLE INDEX: THE CORNER, PORTS 1961, LVMH PRIZE, MARC BY MARC JACOBS

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Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…


1. PORTS 1961 GETS A REFRESH

Ports 1961 aw15 by new creative director Natasa Cagalj

I was invited to the Ports 1961 press day last week to see the debut womenswear collection by new creative director Natasa Cagalj. The brand is undergoing a bit of a reinvention thanks to Cagalj, who is set on delivering wearable, adaptable wardrobe solutions for women. She’s doing this with fantastic coats, jackets and shirts that have a little bit of masculinity in their tailored construction but not too much. I also loved her styling. She has paired these cool, intelligent pieces with idiosyncratic footwear and hats, such as the knotty skate shoes (‘a nod to Romeo Gigli’) above. These early prototype samples got a lot of love on my Instagram.


2. THE CORNER GOES GENDER NEUTRAL

The Corner introduces gender neutral section on its site

So the Selfridges ‘Agender’ effect is seeping through to other areas of retail already. Ecommerce site, The Corner has announced that from June it will incorporate a gender-neutral section on its site. Called “No Gender”, it will sell non-gender-specific pieces from brands including Rick Owens, Rad Hourani, Hood by Air and Ann Demeulemeester.


3. FAUSTINE STEINMETZ AND MARQUES’ALMEIDA IN LINE FOR LVMH FASHION PRIZE

Faustine Steinmetz Aw15 by Disneyrollergirl

Major news from the LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize. London has scored very well with three out of eight candidates in the final lineup (why does this feel like Eurovision?!). Congrats to Faustine Steinmetz (above), Marques’Almeida and Craig Green, whose singular visions, creativity and business nous have done them proud in a hugely competitive market. Here’s my first piece on Faustine from 2013.


4. MARC BY MARC JACOBS IN JEOPARDY?

Marc By Marc Jacobs -photo via Dazed  Lea Colombo

Rumours are swirling that Marc By Marc Jacobs is being killed off, or rather, folded into the main Marc Jacobs line. According to WWD’s Bridget Foley, it’s a cost cutting exercise in preparation for the impending IPO. But where will it leave Luella Bartley and Katie Hiller?

WORDS: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl
MARC BY MARC JACOBS IMAGE: DAZED by LEA COLOMBO

What to buy from Selfridges Agender

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Sefridges launches Agender campaign
Is ‘Agender‘ the new normcore? It’s a new word to get our heads around but it’s essentially not a new concept. It’s Selfridges‘ description for the current vogue for gender-neutral dressing, in which we take away the gender stereotypes around clothing and just wear what we feel like. Not ‘he’ or ‘she’ but ‘me’.

The Agender concept launched in the Oxford Street store last Thursday, with dedicated areas designed by Studio Toogood, the creative practice of Faye Toogood. So ‘menswear’ and ‘womenswear’ product is jumbled together and merchandised as ‘Agender’, along with a few extra brands and designers bought in specially.

Even the visual merchandising has been turned on its head with product displayed in unbranded cloth garment bags and archive boxes, stripped of the usual clues of branding and trends. A bold move surely! Instead, to draw customers into these chickenwire enclosures, there are abstract sculptures and artworks to ponder and, hopefully, provoke into some trying and buying action…

Agender store concept at Selfridges
Selfridges Agender concept designed by Faye Toogood
2 Selfridges Agender concept designed by Faye Toogood
Selfridges Agender concept designed by Faye Toogood
Bodymap bag at Selfridges Agender concept designed by Faye Toogood
Agender campaign.PHOTO MATT WRITTLE© copyright Matt Writtle 2014.
Agender campaign.PHOTO MATT WRITTLE© copyright Matt Writtle 2014.
Agender campaign.PHOTO MATT WRITTLE© copyright Matt Writtle 2014.

My favourte pieces include the Bodymap bags printed with their signature star print, gorgeously crafted utility-wear by Faye Toogood’s own label, Yang Li’s sweats and obviously, everything Comme. There’s a big focus on young streety London labels such as Nasir Mazhar and Astrid Andersen as well as the likes of Nicopanda and Yang Li. To accompany what’s in store are eye-catching windows devoid of traditional mannequins, a pretty cool video and a programme of accompanying in-store events. Wonder if it will catch on?

WORDS: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl
IMAGES: Selfridges; Disneyrollergirl

Nail news: Givenchy’s matte nails and Dior’s cult nail creme

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Givenchy matte nails in Rose Evocation and Jaune Expression
I can’t pretend I’m not thrilled that beauty is going through a natural phase for Spring. I much prefer peachy cheeks and a balmy lip to labour-intensive make-up theatrics. That said, it’s not all nude lips and smoky eyes, Givenchy’s spring palette is unapologetically candy-coloured with some fun tricks up its sleeves.

I especially love the matte nail polishes in Jaune Expression and Rose Evocation (£16.50). I road-tested the unabashed bubblegum pink of Rose Evocation at the press launch just before Christmas. The matte finish brings down the wackiness a notch and the lasting power was pretty impressive (I think I counted five days without a top coat).

If you can’t decide between the two, then why not get both? Dior has decreed duo nails a thing (a different colour on each hand) and I’ve been doing this for a while myself – it turns out to be a most time efficient way to review nail colour samples!

Speaking of Dior, in other nail news, I saw on Instagram that Dior has released a special red-cased edition of its cult Crème Abricot nail creme. I’ve been meaning to buy this forever. I always thought it was a lip balm and I was mainly attracted to the cute pot with its bright orange shiny gloop. Turns out this is a great cuticle product and now there’s a new sexier version. It doesn’t seem to be available in the UK yet but I’m going to hunt around. More info here.

Dior Creme Abricot Limited edition red packaging

Art and architecture at the Fondation Louis Vuitton

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fondation louis vuitton

With the spotlight on Paris, now is a good time to talk about the Fondation Louis Vuitton. This spectacular gift to Paris opened at the end of last year and I got my first look a few weeks ago on a whirlwind trip to the city with Who’s Next.

So what exactly is the Fondation Louis Vuitton? Continue reading

Top 5 styling moments from Dior AW15

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Dior RTW Fall Winter 2015 Paris

The verdict on Dior AW15 is that these highly commercial RTW pieces wll fly off the rails. I’m quite taken with the accessories and beauty direction too. Here are my favourite styling elements…

1.WALKING-ON-AIR BOOTS
These ankle gripping boots with Lucite heels were unmissable, giving the illusion of walking on air. Continue reading

THE DRG STYLE INDEX: CARVEN, UNIQLO X LEMAIRE, DAMIR DOMA, ANOTHER MAGAZINE

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…

1. ALEXIS MARTIAL TO CARVEN
Carven aw15
I loved what Alexis Martial did at Iceberg so I’ll be interested to see how he develops Carven. This week we heard that Martial and Adran Caillaudaud (most recently at Givenchy) are the new co artistic directors at Carven, with Martial focusing on RTW and Caillaudaud on accessories. Continue reading

Feeling at home at the revamped Hermes New Bond Street store

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London's Hermes New Bond Street flagship reopens

Making your retail store feel like a home – a relaxing, inviting and luxurious one – is quite the thing right now and Hermès has of course nailed it. Enter exhibit A: its newly re-zhuzhed London flagship in the old Time & Life building in New Bond Street. This year marks its 40th anniversary in this location and it’s celebrated by doubling the size, enhancing the tactile factor and giving us a whole lot more product. Continue reading

Is Bally picking up the Gucci slack?

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Bally Aw15

I’m not sure I can handle any more Royal Tenenbaums references, but these Bally AW15 colour combinations are pretty sublime. Bally has moved on its minimalist, slightly masculine cuts from the last couple of seasons to arrive at something prettier and resembling – dare I say it – Gucci! A happy accident, or a strategic move I wonder? Continue reading

Dior and I: watch the trailer

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I’ve just watched a screening of the Dior and I movie, the documentary directed by Frédéric Tcheng which comes out on 27th March (in the UK). Following Raf Simons as he creates his first ever Dior collection in just eight weeks (a couture one, no less), it’s a tense and insightful look at Simons’ creative approach and process as he steps into the lead role at Paris’s most iconic fashion house.

It’s a very human and beautiful film. Continue reading

Thoughts on the new Gucci

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Gucci Aw15

Is Gucci about to have a Saint Laurent moment? Remember the brouhaha at first sighting of Hedi’s womenswear debut? It wasn’t pretty. (The reaction I mean, I liked the clothes.) The reaction was similarly confused when new Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele first showed his menswear collection in January. It was so removed from heritage Gucci, sexy Tom Ford Gucci or sophisticated Frida Giannini Gucci that lots of hands were wrung. Continue reading

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