Brands

What to steal from Louis Vuitton menswear SS17

Louis Vuitton menswear ss17

If you’re concerned about Joe Corre’s threat to burn his entire stash of punk memorabilia, don’t fret so. Kim Jones has a sizable chunk of the archive in his possession, being an avid collector of Sex, Seditionaries Westwood and the rest. Thus his collection for Louis Vuitton menswear SS17 was peppered with a smattering of punkish references, from kinky plastic macs, to stencil-print boilersuits, to my favourite old standby, the razzy mohair sweater. All with a veneer of grown up polish, naturally.

Jones took part of his inspo from South Africa (Vuitton is, of course, rooted in travel, and Jones spent much of his childhood in various parts of Africa) which lent the collection an Afro-punk vibe, thanks to the Jake and Dinos Chapman-illustrated animal prints and generous use of exotic skins.

The irony is that youngsters don’t seem that bothered about starting new youth cults. It’s the old folk who love revisiting the punkish past and they’re the only ones likely to be able to afford these uber-luxe renditions. Oldsters rejoice!

 Louis Vuitton menswear ss17 by Chloe Le Drezen for Dazed
Louis Vuitton menswear ss17 Vogue Runway
Louis Vuitton menswear ss17 by Chloe Le Drezen for Dazed
Louis Vuitton menswear ss17 Vogue Runway

7 Louis Vuitton ss17 by Chloe Le Drezen for Dazed 3

8 Louis Vuitton Vogue Runway 9

9 Louis Vuitton ss17 by Chloe Le Drezen for Dazed 5

9 Louis Vuitton Vogue Runway

10 Louis Vuitton Vogue Runway 16

Louis Vuitton ss17 by Chloe Le Drezen for Dazed

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Vogue Runway; Chloe Le Drezen for Dazed
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here.

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Gri Gri perfume for tattooed skin

Gri Gri perfume for tattooed skin

I’m sooo not the tattoo type; I’ve never got the attraction and I’m scared of needles. But there’s something intriguing about this new fragrance brand, created ‘for tattooed skin’.

Gri Gri was launched by perfumer Anais Biguine and takes its creative lead from tattoo history and culture. It’s quite clever because god knows tattoos are a mainstream trend now, yet of course they have a historical significance too. The branding is clean and elegant and very French (it’s a Parisian brand), while the scents sound spiritual and exotic.

So far there are three ‘masculine’ scents. Tara Mantra is a blend of saffron, cardamom and jasmine that’s described as woody and animallic (yes please). Moko Maori sounds more fresh and green with fern and grass notes, while Ukiyo-E sounds suitably Japanese with its combo of green tea, yuzu and cherry blossom.

I discovered the brand on my friend Amanda’s perfume site We Wear Perfume, which is all about fragrance and storytelling (you can find out all sorts of things, such as why Gri Gri’s Anais Biguine wears perfume on her heels). If you’re interested in fragrance and are a little bit nosy (ahem), do check it out. And for info on Gri Gri, head to the brand’s Facebook page.

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGE: Gri Gri perfume
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here.

 

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Raf loves Robert

Raf Simons ss17
Generally positive reactions to Raf Simons’ ode to Robert Mapplethorpe last week in Florence. The revered 80s photographer is having a moment, after his retrospective exhibitions at LACMA and The Getty Center in Los Angeles (and the HBO documentary Mapplethorpe: Look at the Pictures) reminded us of the breadth of his output. As with Gosha, Raf is well versed in finding ways to demonstrate his passions while keeping to his signature house codes.

So, haphazardly oversized silhouettes continue to dominate, as do the cut-and-paste, collagy motifs familiar to any Raf fan-boy (or girl). The collaboration was initiated by the Mapplethorpe camp and eagerly embraced by Raf. As well as recognisable portraits of Debbie Harry, Patti Smith and Robert Sherman, other recurring Mapplethorpe themes included male nudes, antique statues and elegant flower photographs.

These were artfully and respectfully placed by Raf, framed in the open neckline of a slouchy sweater, on the bib of a dungaree, or arranged in triplicate down the side of a shirt. As Raf commented to the FT (registration required), “I wanted to approach it like when you do an exhibition at a museum or a gallery, but of course the medium is so different. Which was a big challenge, because otherwise you have T-shirt with prints which is what most people do but which I don’t find very respectful.”

Raf Simons ss17 - a collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe estate
Raf Simons ss17 - a collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe estate
Raf Simons ss17 - a collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe estate

While the naked male member glimpsed on a shirt was seen by some as deliberately provocative, it was the flower prints that grabbed my attention. They reminded me of my Raf-for-Dior flower placement sweatshirt from SS14 along with an orchid-print silk square scarf. But to anyone unfamiliar with Mapplethorpe’s work, they just represented covetable, wearable pieces.

To accompany the show, Raf produced an exhibition of his 20-year-old archive, which helped to reinforce his recurrent themes. The oversized white shirts and layered, cropped knits, the peekaboo photo placements, they’re all Raf signatures that we know and love. Yet how perfectly they translate as canvases for Mapplethorpe’s work…
Raf Simons ss17
6 Raf Simons ss17
7 Raf Simons ss17 Vogue Runway
Raf Simons ss17 - a collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe estate
Raf Simons Robert Mapplethorpe collaboration SS17
Raf Simons ss17 Vogue Runway

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Vogue Runway; Yu Fujiwara for W magazine
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here.

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What’s the deal with Gosha?

Gosha Rubchinskiy Fila collaboration

Oooh so much bemusement from the not-young fashion contingent re Gosha Rubchinskiy! I get it. I struggle sometimes too, but you just have to supplant your own knowledge and references for the mindset of young people for a change. (more…)