Pre-tail site, M’oda ‘Operandi has been going for quite a while now and even though I’m still a novice online shopper when it comes to fashion (honestly, I can count my total clothing purchases on two hands), I do think it’s a clever concept.
For me it works as a research tool. It bridges the gap between seeing things on the runway (styled to the hilt as per the designer’s vision) and seeing them on a rail in store. We get to see clothes ahead of season styled in a more wearable way, including those by some of the lesser known designers. This week’s ‘trunk shows’ (the M’O name for its limited-time pre-order sales) includes Bouchra Jarrar’s winter couture collection (a designer I love, who was shortlisted for the Balenciaga gig and M’oda ‘Operandi’s first ‘couture’ designer) and J.W. Anderson pre-fall.
But like a lot of start-ups, it seems the plan is to develop the concept beyond its original, well, moda operandi. Since December, the site has also offered conventional, in-season etail in its ‘Boutique’, giving the M’O consumer the option to buy their favorite pieces and wear them the next day. As CEO Aslaug Magnusdottir says, “We want to better serve our current customers and reach a new customer base. We’ve been able to establish a name in various pockets of the world and we want to take advantage of our positioning and build our market share quickly.”
It’s kind of stupid but I secretly like the wonkiness of these half-open-half-closed handbags. Fendi came first with its Peekaboo (now in umpteen sizes, finishes and colours), followed by Celine with this zippy number (above). It’s part of the whole ‘I’m so busy I just don’t care’ thing that’s going on and is popular with the type of girl that throws her coat over her shoulders because she doesn’t have a spare second to put her arms in the sleeves. (more…)
Oh I do love a logical brand tie-up. For Valentine's Day, Lancome has worked with Olympia le Tan to create 100 felt appliquéd 'book clutch' minaudiers, stuffed full of Lancome product. Le Tan chose six Lancome Rouge In Love lipsticks and Vernis In Love nail polishes - in pinks and reds obvs - to package inside the handmade clutch bags.
They go on sale exclusively at Harvey Nichols (in store, £995) from Monday.
If you’re a fan of Le Tan’s work, check out her Tumblr, which often shows the vintage books she uses as inspiration…
The Twittersphere went mental last Friday, at UK Vogue’s announcement of the forthcoming launch of Miss Vogue (first issue to be sold with the June Vogue). I’m thrilled too. I love Vogue, I love Teen Vogue, I love teenagers, I think I’ll like Miss Vogue. But from a news point of view, this is why it’s interesting…
1) It’s youth-focussed
My background is in teen mags. I had the funnest time of my life working in the ‘young women’s market’ but towards the end, we found young people just weren’t buying our magazine. Or any teen mag. J17, Elle Girl, Sugar all tried to last in print but couldn’t. Partly because we found that teenagers just read their mum’s mags (Grazia, Heat, Vogue) or weren’t reading magazines at all, they got all their information online.
2) It’s a print mag
Magazines are dying! Oh no they’re not! Vogue launching a new print magazine is news indeed. I always maintain that young people don’t have the ‘nostalgia’ of print and instinctively gravitate to online, especially now with such incredible mobile platforms. If Vogue is launching a magazine for young people, I’m sure the package will include web and mobile apps. But I really hope they can prove that young people are interested enough in print too.
3) It’s a new launch
You’d think the fashion content market was saturated by now, especially with all the blurring going on between editorial publications and commercial publications. With ASOS, H&M and Topshop all regularly producing excellent, free magazines, what more can Miss Vogue possibly have to offer?
I guess the important thing here is Authority. I’ve just been watching this great 2000 documentary on Anna Wintour in which she maintains that Vogue stands for excellence. Vogue is known as the authority on fashion – even now. And as the media and fashion worlds have become democratised, suddenly everyone has a voice and a point of view. While other young women’s magazines like Look and Company have embraced bloggers and readers’ input, Vogue is still very much about the editors’ view. And I think there is still a place for that. Maybe more so than ever before.
Hands down, one of the biggest menswear trends for AW13 is all things traditional, homespun and British. So think Harris tweeds, Scottish cashmeres and Savile Row-style tailoring using textiles from our oldest mills. Nicely timed then, is Made In Great Britain from Marks & Spencer, its heritage line that will be launching in selected stores in the autumn. (more…)
What a great find these photos are! They’re by Ellen von Unwerth from Interview magazine 1993, unearthed from a ring binder of goodies that I’m glad I never threw away. The photo of Anna with a (pre-Starbucks?) paper coffee cup surely epitomises the ambition of every long suffering intern that ever slaved over ‘returns’, dreaming of her Devil Wears Prada moment and the one below of Anna sharing a joke with Hamish and Camilla proves that – yes! – the Chanel sunnies stay on at all times… (more…)
Dear Vogue, please can you publish an updated version of More Dash Than Cash for millennial recessionistas? These two ancient copies have been well-thumbed over the years because their advice and pictures still ring true. But how good would it be to have some updated images from David Sims, Daniel Jackson and Alasdair McLellan in amongst the Bruce Weber and Arthur Elgort goodies…?
Opening today at the ICA is Juergen Teller’s ‘Woo’ exhibition. I’m desperate to see it, in particular his landscapes that I’ve only recently discovered. Here’s a clip I found (above) of him shooting Helena Bonham Carter with his two Contaxes. And here’s another one (below) of him shooting Kate Moss. (Venetia Scott makes an appearance too)… (more…)
We saw mutated versions of it at Raf Simons’ debut Dior couture show last July, and now Bruno Frisoni has updated the original in silver mirror leather and pink mink for Roger Vivier’s Rendez-Vous collection AW13. The iconic ‘Comma’ shoe, designed by Vivier in the 1950s was a precursor to the stiletto. As shoe designer for Dior, his creations set the benchmark in footwear design for years to come, and the bent, squat ‘Comma’ was one of his best.
Fast forward to 2013 and we’re seeing more versions of those inwards- and outwards-curved heels, both from the house of Dior and from the house of Vivier and in short and tall versions. For Dior RTW SS13 they’re tall, slightly flared and bent inwards, while at yesterday’s Dior couture show they were super-slender and came in bright metallics and chalky shades. Let’s see if the ‘Comma”s influence spreads further…
Ahhh, it’s amazing the things you unearth when rummaging through old school and college files. This contact sheet is from a 1991 John Galliano PR shoot. My friend had done work experience in the press office and had smuggled this out along with some stickers and labels. I think it was for a diffusion line called Galliano’s Girl. (more…)