Hermes is opening stores left, right and centre, proving that there’s no shortage of demand for Constance handbags and playful-luxe knick knacks. Last month saw the opening of a new men’s flagship in Rome but I’m more interested in the recently opened Hermes standalone store in Bombay. Built at 15a Horniman Circle, (the point zero from where all meeting points in the city are measured), it’s the first luxury store to open in a standalone location rather than in a hotel or luxury mall as is the norm for India. Continue reading
Just discovered a bumper stash of
old vintage Interview magazines with covers by Richard Bernstein on the Fashion Illustration Gallery site. Now fantasising about an entire wall papered with these… Continue reading
An invitation from The Future Laboratory is always worth taking up. The future-forecasting think tank is known for its innovative events and trend predicting insights and the latest one promised to give a glimpse into the future of retail. Continue reading
As a lover of paper, cutting shit out and cutesy knick knacks, I’m all over this Victorinox Tomo Swiss Army knife (that was sent as a gift – thank you!). A collaboration between the classic knife brand and Japanese designer, Kazuma Yamaguchi, the Victorinox Tomo comes in a rainbow of colours and weighs literally nothing.
In my package was a Rob Ryan stencil and special Japanese stencil paper but I think the best thing is this accompanying video – inspirational, no?
Last week I got sent the first gripping ‘episode’ of Peroni Collaborazioni, the fashion project I’m working on with Shaun Samson. Together we’re creating a piece that defines Italian style which will be showcased in November. So what is Italian style? I started off thinking about knitwear (spurred by Shaun’s graduate collection that melded knits, plaids and denim so expertly together) which took me back to the golden age of Benetton’s rainbow coloured vision and Missoni’s iconic zig zags. Then I got hooked on the idea of the eccentrics: Schiaparelli, Anna Piaggi, Moschino, because I love wit and humour in fashion. Then the classic luxe heritage of Italian style as personified by Armani, Gucci and Fendi’s fabulous furs took hold. But in the end, after much debate, we arrived at a different place.
Shaun’s work so far has been very much about textile innovation; he’s an experimentor who loves to play around and let the magic happen of its own accord. I love the way the modern-day eccentrics like Prada and Marni play with textiles, juxtaposing mad combinations together, demonstrated so beautifully this season in Prada’s pailette-fake-fur-snakeskin-lurex texture-clash. Having access to our super-knowledgable Italian fashion consultant Anna Battista has also been quite the eye opener. In one of our email exchanges, she sent me the following:
“People usually think it’s the designer who is the genius, but in Italy it was often the case that the unassuming textile designer was the real genius behind a fashion collection, especially in the heyday of Italian fashion. Many textile manufacturers in the Prato area (who closed their business after the crisis) were actually as skilled and talented as the fashion designers themselves and came up with amazing fabrics. I think in Italy you have fashion designers who are great fabric connoisseurs such as Valentino and Giorgio Armani, but also fashion designers who experimented with fabrics in great ways such as Roberto Capucci or Walter Albini.
“Emilio Pucci who’s more known for his kaleidosopic prints even patented his own fabric called Emilioform, while accessory designers such as Salvatore Ferragamo pushed things further, experimenting with materials as varied as invisible thread, candy wrappings, cork and even gold in his shoes. In more recent years we have seen interesting surface elaborations at Fendi (well they have great knowledge there about leather and fur…) that merged Burri’s burnt paintings with fashion. Gianni Versace also mixed plastic/PVC and silk to obtain lurid effects (that some critics deemed as rather kitsch) and patented the oroton, a sort of metal mesh fabric imitating chain mail that could be draped, dyed or printed.”
Hello, who knew Versace invented that chain mail fabric (that is quite prominent in the forthcoming Versace X H&M collab by the way)? Certainly not me! So we have gone in the direction of labour-intensive fabric experimentation, which is obviously Shaun’s forte. And we have gone for the sensible option of creating a simple piece which will let the fabric do the talking. There are only a few weeks left to complete the project so time is of the essence. For now, let me leave you with this wee write-up of the project in The Guardian…
…Jonathan Saunders’ ravishing geometric-print silk scarves. Wear now, frame later!
Oh to have witnessed this Diane Von Furstenberg ‘fash’ mob, to launch her new fragrance Diane at Sephora in Paris. According to Harper’s Bazaar, 100-odd Von Furstenberg fans donned print wrap dresses and ‘performed a cheeky routine to Chaka Khan’s I’m Every Woman‘ along the banks of the Seine. How fabulous can you get?
Gentlemanly shoes continue to storm the international runways (hello Haider Ackermann) which means it’s a good time for Grenson to launch its first full womenswear line. Crucially, the women’s shoes take their lead from the men’s range, being only a whisker slimmer than the men’s lasts but essentially the same styles. Continue reading