“People didn’t buy 32 pairs of Jimmy Choos and Louboutins. People didn’t have 16 pairs of sunglasses. People didn’t have 22 dresses. They just didn’t. They had these clothes to go out and have fun with. They wore these clothes. When you got a piece of Westwood or whatever, you wore it four times a week. Yves Saint Laurent and Dior weren’t in vogue for young people. They were Knightsbridge ladies’ labels. But then these big companies thought, ‘well, we’d better get the young crowd in’. Now everything’s a bit corporate and controlled. And everything’s disposable.”
Rellik’s Steven Philip, Another Magazine (an enjoyable read about Kim Jones and his collecting habit)
If you’re not familiar with the concept of Christmas In July, it’s when all the brands showcase their gifting wares to the press in the lead up to working on their Christmas issues. Traditionally, magazines work on their December issue in August, so they need to start planning in July. Of course, bloggers don’t need to plan so far in advance but we like to see what’s coming up, so we get invited too. (It happens across the board, so food press get thoroughly spoilt at the M&S press day with all the suppliers in attendance to show off their satsumas, chocolate truffles and Christmas cakes.)
I tend to avoid Christmas in July though as it can get a bit relentless but there are certain exceptions. Jo Malone London is a big highlight. This year they have gone large on gifting – the super hero is this mega sized cracker (above and below) with an array of full sized products inside. For £205 you get a 100ml Pomegranate Noir cologne, a Pine & Eucalyptus home candle, a Lime Basil & Mandarin body crème, and the Mimosa & Cardamom body & hand wash – can you imagine finding that under your tree? (Or finding a tree big enough to put it under?) Don’t fret though, they are still doing the classic cracker (£32) and the beloved bauble (£24)…
The advent calendar has become a beauty gifting staple. This year the Jo Malone London luxury advent calendar (£260, below) is going into all Jo Malone boutiques so should be easier to get hold of.
They have also brought back the delicious Roasted Chestnut candle from 3 years ago in a deluxe size (£120, below), a good alternative if you have pine candle fatigue during the festive season.
Jo Malone bath salts (below) are new for this year. They’re quite spendy though, with three sachets of English Pear and Fresia for £30, but they make a cute stocking filler. And of course there are endless other sets of all the fragrances, this season packaged in a retro green stripe theme. Pomegranate Noir is also released in special limited edition green packaging exclusively at Selfridges, Brown Thomas, Selfridges.com and Jomalone.co.uk.
This all lands in October, in time for other big Jo Malone news, their new global flagship arrives in Regent Street at the end of October. You have been warned…
WORDS AND IMAGES: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl
Gotta love that pretty much the whole Gucci AW15 collection went into production, mostly unmodified from what we saw on the runway. And if you break it down without the styling and kooky casting, you get desirable, wearable and very commercial clothes (goat hair Dougal-from-Magic-Roundabout-style slippers excepted).
My eye is on the tailored suits which have lived-in creases pressed into them but are immaculately cut. And also the fur-lined snaffle-trim slippers (the clogs, not so much). Also, a note on the jewellery. I don’t think Gucci has ever been known for jewellery but we know Alessandro Michele loves his chunky rings so I can see these becoming a bit of a thing. The entry point for the smaller rings is around £200 but be warned, prices go much higher for the real show stoppers…
Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands currently buzzing on my radar…
1. CHANEL TO STAGE MADEMOISELLE PRIVE EXHIBITION
It seems like Chanel is never out of the news and this week it’s to announce a forthcoming exhibition that celebrates the heritage of the house. Luxury brands are getting very skilled at these ‘immersive’ exhibitions, which take visitors on a storytelling journey through how the past informs the present. For this one, the Chanel Mademoiselle Privé exhibition at the Saatchi Gallery will focus on the haute couture, the 1932 high jewellery collection and Chanel No 5. Despite the name, the exhibition will focus on both Gabrielle Chanel’s and Karl Lagerfeld’s influence.
2. GUCCI TO DOVER STREET MARKET
The next stage of the cool-ification of Gucci? A concession at Dover Street Market. Joining Celine and Saint Laurent, it will have its own little corner of DSM in all four stores (starting with Tokyo this weekend). The first look reveals suitably Grey Gardens-esque visual merchandising, with powder pink carpet and velvet buttoned screens.
3.GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY X TIMUR NOVIKOV
In other DSM news, a collaboration between Gosha Rubchinskiy and Russian Artist Timur Novikov has just launched exclusively at Dover Street Market, London. Rubchinsky has translated Novikov’s naive, graphic motifs into his signature casual tees and shorts.
4 FAREWELL FIORUCCI
Last week bid a sad and sudden goodbye to Elio Fiorucci, one of the true architects of modern fashion. His optimistic vision embraced fashion, music, experiential retail and I guess lifestyle as we know it now. And who can forget the incredible post-pop graphics used on store branding, carrier bags, advertising imagery and clothing? It’s said that he was working on a book and I remember that Opening Ceremony’s Carol Lim and Humberto Leon had expressed a desire to collaborate. Perhaps we’ll see his estate re-release some fabulous creations to commemorate? Until then, expect to see his influence infiltrate the next couple of seasons’ fashion collections as Tumblr and Instagram explode with his references.