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On my radar: Leïla Menchari and Karel Martens



A portrait of Leila Menchari in 1985- Photo by Edouard Boubat

Two stories caught my attention in the new Hermès magazine, Le Monde d’Hermes. The first is an amazing sounding exhibition celebrating Leïla Menchari, Hermès‘ extraordinary secret weapon, whose legendary window displays brought a playful spirit to the brand for 35 years. The exhibition, ‘Hermès à tire-d’aile — Les mondes de Leïla Menchari‘ will run from 9th Nov to 3rd Dec 2017 at the Grand Palais, Paris.

Leïla Menchari Hermes
Leïla Menchari Hermes
Leila Menchari Hermes exhibition

I also discovered the work of Karel Martens, an artist and typographer who prints graphic shapes onto cards, tickets and other discarded paper matter. I love these geometric patterns and hot and cool colour combos…

Karel Martens
Karel Martens
Karel Martens

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES:Portrait of Leïla Menchari by Edouard Boubat; 3 x Hermes; 3 x Karel Martens
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Buy it now: Prada craft class



Prada menswear aw17 by Virginia Arcaro

Prada’s retro arty AW17 collection has arrived online. These men’s hand knits jumped off the screen the first time I saw them back in January, an example of Miuccia Prada’s yearning for “reality, normality, simplicity”.

The naive still life painted jumpers and shirts are another symbol of hand work, taking time for painterly pursuits or maybe just a nice glass of wine! The women’s loafers and leather bomber below remind me of my art scchool days (501s, a bowling shirt from Flip and leather loafers), but they’re classics that have stood the test of time.

We have been lucky to experience some unseasonably warm weather in the UK lately. I did a shoot in windswept Whitstable yesterday armed with HeatTech and cashmere scarves but it was blissfully mild. But a cold snap is a-coming and these craftsy knits are waiting conveniently in the wings…

NOW CLICK BELOW TO SHOP THE POST…

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGE: Virginia Arcaro/Dazed
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman



The curious case of Andre Walker



andre walker ss18

An unexpected highlight of Paris Fashion Week was the Andre Walker presentation at Musee des Art Decoratifs. A former designer under Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton and at Jacobs’ own label, Walker recreated pieces he first designed in the mid-80s.

Back then, he didn’t have a production set-up, so after his shows he would take the original samples to Patricia Field and sell the one-offs. Which means that (until now), the pieces bought by Kim Jones, Paper magazine’s Kim Hastreiter and Pat Field herself were the only ones in existence.

Andre Walker SS18
Andre Walker SS18

While the pieces shown at PFW had something of an 80s sculptural quality to the silhouettes, they were fashioned out of fabric supplied by Pendleton, so think blanket-soft wool wrap coats with ovoid cut-out details and utilitarian stripes.

Even though the cuts were straight out of 1982, they looked surprisingly contemporary thanks to the understated styling with the socks and jazz shoes. (The whole thing was a rather low-key affair, hence the photobombers milling about in the background…)

Andre Walker

I’m not sure where Andre Walker intends to go from here; he comes across as a bit of an outlier who has had a few false starts but never quite made it big. But he certainly created a buzz during a Fashion Month that seemed steeped in nostalgia. Perhaps he just needs a good business partner. One to watch in any case…

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Vogue
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman



Quote of the day: Valerie Wickes, Beauty Papers



beauty papers Valerie Wickes

“There’s nothing wrong with products, but at the same time, it’s only a little part of the culture and the world of beauty. Talking to people that you don’t necessarily get access to and getting a bigger view on beauty was something really important. We’re more interested, I suppose, in the artistry of it. The artistry is much harder to find.”
Valerie Wickes (right), creative director of Beauty Papers magazine, Into The Gloss

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGE: Into The Gloss
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here

CLICK HERE to get Disneyrollergirl blog posts straight to your inbox once a week
CLICK HERE to buy my book The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman

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