Juxtaposed



Matisse in the studio Royal Academy exhibition

I had the loveliest, creative week last week. All the planets aligned and sent me off to visit friends in a far off land (Eastbourne), to an excellent film screening (the Dries van Noten movie ) and to the Matisse In the Studio exhibition, where I reacquainted myself with a long lost friend.

I loved Dries, the movie. It’s a niche film so hasn’t had cinema distribution. Instead I saw it at a private screening hosted by WattsWhat magazine at the appropriately textile-tastic Ham Yard hotel. The film is an intimate portrayal of Dries van Noten at work and at home. It gets right up close, delving into his work processes, his home life, his garden obsession and his relationship with partner Patrick Vangheluwe.

I thought the backstage fashion show footage was particularly revealing. The idea of styling a show makes me feel sick – too many things that can go wrong. There’s a scene of controlled chaos where Dries is checking the models as they’re lining up to go onto the runway and he has a mini flap (but in a calm, Dries-y way of course) as he doesn’t have the list breaking down the exact styling details. I could totally relate! “Should hands be in or out of pockets?” seems like such an inconsequential concern in the grand scheme of world issues but when you’re orchestrating a show, it probably does feel like the height of importance. So I could feel the palpable stress and also the lingering sense of dissatisfaction post-show, when Dries reveals that he always notices loads of mistakes. Oh, the pain of perfectionism.

Dries van noten movie movie juxtapositions

I enjoyed seeing inside Dries’ house and of course his utterly ravishing garden. And his eccentric perfectionist ways revealed themselves again in a scene where he places freshly cut flowers in a vase next to an arrangement of objects. After moving each item a millimetre to the left and to the right, director Reiner Holzemer asks what he is trying to achieve. Dries explains he wants to echo the colourful juxtaposition of a nearby chair in this set-up, something none of us would consciously have noticed, but would have all subconsciously appreciated.

And there you have the success of Dries van Noten. The exact same attentiveness is what he enjoys when placing this loud patterned shirt with that woven suit. We see this play out in lengthy design studio scenes and from our vantage it’s fascinating. But equally, it must be exhausting to experience and live with.

Dries Van Noten Film

Earlier that day, I saw Matisse In The Studio at the Royal Academy. This exhibition is so popular that even members have to book a slot and can’t just swish in. In the same vein as the Dries film, this demonstrates the artist’s ways of juxtaposition. Matisse’s very specific eye, that has a unique way of placing a textile next to a body next to a decoraitive chair is such a delight to behold. His relationship to Central and West African art and sculpture and notions of global beauty are also explored. I think Dries would have loved it.

Matisse In The Studio - Royal Academy - London - Safrano Roses at the Window, 1925
Matisse In The Studio Royal Academy
 Matisse In The Studio exhibition at The Royal Academy, London


Matisse In The Studio
is at the Royal Academy until 12th November 2017. Watch the Dries trailer here.

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
LAST IMAGE: via @StephinLondonTown
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Buy it now: sunset palettes



By Terry Sunset Palettes

I’ve never bought into the hoopla of palettes. I think partly it’s because they’re so hyped you know another one will be along in a minute. And partly it’s because you only ever use half the shades. But there’s been a succession of very pretty ones lately that I think are worth investing in if you’re looking for something easy and enduring.

BY TERRY TROPICAL BREAK 3 PALETTE
Peony Lim did a detailed Insta Stories tutorial with the By Terry Tropical Break 3 palette (above, £65) using the golden bronzers and deep blush shades. The outcome was my favourite kind of makeup, natural-looking with a bit of a flush (not half as scary as the colours look in the pan), complemented by rose pink #mlbb* lips. The easiest thing to do is swirl all three rose gold bronzing shades together with a fat brush and blend them along the hairline and under the cheekbones. Then with an angled brush, pick up the orange and the pink, tap off the excess and blend these into the apples of the cheeks. Use the highlighter shade along the tops of the cheekbones and finish with mascara and a nude liquid lipstick. Buy the palette at Net-a-Porter.

MAC MISCHIEF MINX PALETTE Again, this is all about the warm, earthy eye tones that seem to be flattering to all but especially medium olive tones. I love orange and tan on the eyes, particularly at this time of year – late summer going into autumn. Alongside the sunset shades in a range of textures, there’s also a golden highlighter and some darker browns for adding depth. Buy The MAC Mischief Minx palette at Selfridges and John Lewis (£32).

ZOEVA COCOA BLEND EYESHADOW PALETTE At £18, I don’t think anyone can argue with this ten-shadow palette. I’ve not tried Zoeva make-up but it’s generally well regarded and I’m a fan of the excellent Zoeva brushes so I’d definitely give this a go. For late summer, the golden bronze shades add back-from-the-beach luminosity without full-on shimmer. And you’ll get lots of wear from the matte taupe and chocolate brown shades throughout the year. (P.S, I much prefer these user-friendly round pans to zigzags or too-small squares.) Buy it at Selfridges.

*my lips but better

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WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
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THE DRG STYLE INDEX: American Apparel, Blouse, Connolly, Crabtree & Evelyn and more!



Here’s the latest weekly DRG STYLE INDEX ranking, a round-up of the brands and industry stories currently buzzing on my radar…

1. AMERICAN APPAREL VS LOS ANGLES APPAREL

Los Angeles Apparel from Dov Charney
So American Apparel has relaunched, following its Chapter 11 bankruptcy last November. Now owned by Canadian manufacturer Gildan, the website secretly relaunched last week, although not everything is made in the U.S.A. And just to confuse things, former AA owner Dov Charney has also launched his new brand. Called, um, Los Angeles Apparel, above, it looks similar to its predecessor and will be available worldwide “soon”, according to its Instagram.


2. PUT YOUR BLOUSE ON

Blouse by Geoffrey Finch
Lovely to see the return of Geoffrey Finch (previously creative director at Topshop and Antipodium) with his new label, Blouse. The debut collection consists of gender-neutral tees and shirts with eye-catching details, all made in London. Buy it at Matchesfashion.com.


3. CONNOLLY ONLINE

Connolly England blazer and shirt dress

If you ever get a chance to visit the Connolly store in Mayfair, just do it! It’s the most sublime retail experience, with tactile fabrics everywhere, the lushest leather goods, bespoke furniture and in-store photography exhibitions. It’s like visiting your most tasteful friend’s quiet-luxe apartment where everything’s for sale. If not, check the line out at Matchesfashion.com, where you can just catch its late summer staples. I recommend the short sleeve wool-linen knit top and the cotton poplin Mandarin collar shirt dress.


4. CRABTREE & EVELYN REVISITED

Crabtree and Evelyn
Beauty stalwart Crabtree & Evelyn has had some sort of rebrand and it looks so much more appealing. (Thanks British Beauty Blogger for the heads up.) I’m a hand cream nut, so I’m tempted by every one of these now they’re in sleek but colourful packaging. Buy it here.

IN OTHER NEWS…

I’m torn between reading a book and filling my head up with shit… “I’ve been doing it for a couple months and it’s worked. I’m reading, like, three books right now. I’m putting something in my mind. It feels so much better than just reading the Internet and not remembering anything.” via Time

Bally remembers the outstanding styling of NYC’s Guardian angels

Artist Cindy Sherman’s new Instagram account has caused quite the media stir. Are these macabre selfies a commentary on our narcisstic culture? She won’t explain so you’ll have to make your own mind up

Closer to home, former Vogue editor Alex Shulman broke the internet with her holiday bikini selfie. When people used to meet Shulman, they would express surprise that she was the editor of Vogue because she didn’t dress like a fashion victim. She would laugh, “Well I am the editor of Vogue, so this is what the editor of Vogue looks like!” With her candid snap, she’s making a bold statement about body positivity and how we present ourselves and should be applauded

For the best nostalgic streetstyle, revisit the digital archives of my fave style documenter, anthropologist Ted Polhemus

WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
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AW17 trend report: cowboy boots



Calvin Klein Aw17 cowboy Boots and suit by Lillie Eiger for Dazed
Last year, my much loved cowboy boots bit the dust. I was gutted. Admittedly, they were kind of gross – far too overstated, balding ocelot, and so vast, they made my feet look like ocean liners. But I’d worn them for years and was very attached to them.

Cowboy boots are great because you can’t help but walk with a bit of a swagger. Mine were ankle boots, from R Soles *snigger* with a 2-inch Cuban heel and I wore them with straight leg or slightly boot cut Levi’s jeans (hey, it was the 90s) as well as flat front trousers. Not dissimilar to the Calvin Klein uniform that Raf Simons is proposing for AW17, in fact.

Here’s how Calvin Klein and Céline styled theirs on the AW17 runway…
Calvin Klein Aw17 cowboy boots by Lillie Eiger for Dazed
Celine aw17 cowboy boots
calvin klein AW17
calvin klein AW17
calvin klein AW17
Calvin Klein Aw17 Cowboy boots by Lillie Eiger for Dazed

We’ve seen more modest iterations of cowboy boots in recent years, from the likes of Zadig & Voltaire, Acne and Chloe. And I think those are going to be enjoying an enormous comeback this winter. But I’m also interested in the sweet spot between modest and out there. Toga Pulla’s multi-buckle variety seem to be candidates for most-emulated design this season.

Do you have cowboy boots in your long distant past? Are you seduced by Phoebe and Raf’s endorsement? And would you ever entertain the notion of western boots with a skirt suit? Do share in the comments…!


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WORDS: Disneyrollergirl/Navaz Batliwalla
IMAGES: Lillie Eiger for Dazed x 2; Vogue.com x 4; Lillie Eiger for Dazed x 1
NOTE: Some posts use affiliate links and PR samples. Please read my cookies policy here

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CLICK HERE to buy my book The New Garconne: How to be a Modern Gentlewoman

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