London Fashion Week SS15 highlights: Day 4

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Thomas-Tait-ss15-Georges Rousse

The answer to the question “why do we still need fashion shows?” was answered succinctly on Monday with Thomas Tait’s powerpacked, techno-soundtracked stomper of a show. Fashion shows need emotion, energy and feeling in order to express something these days, the clothes are only part of the story. And so Tait created tension and anticipation in his concrete box of a location, with walls painted in collaboration with artist Georges Rousse setting an intriguing scene.

When the models came out, depending on where you sat, they appeared to be marching out of the painted walls, their graphic, strategically-slashed dresses matching the artwork. I was sat directly in front of a speaker, so the whole experience was amplified to the power of ten. It transported me back to those early London McQueen shows – raw, powerful and heart-pounding. It definitely made the show feel much more of an experience and was the most exciting show of the week for me. (A special shout out goes to the shoes, equally aggressive with their upturned spike heels.)

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Erdem‘s show was another evocative production, a dark, tropical setting with a sinister hint of Lord of The Flies. I loved the styling of ornate gowns paired with flat black brogues. After the show I was interviewed by Daisy Lowe for her segment of the BBC Iplayer fashion week documentary which airs tomorrow. I grabbed a couple of shots of her interviewing Vogue’s Alexandra Shulman outside the venue, then directing the street-style paps, telling them where to stand to get her best angle!

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Burberry’s gone kawaii!  I sensed something was up by the new-style invitation (colourful graphics rather than tasteful cream card) and the printed plastic roof. There was a definite nod to the new youth consumer at Burberry Prorsum, with Vivienne Westwood-ish hourglass denim, cropped furry jackets and trainers on the runway. It was a world away from luxe, heritage Burberry, right down to the sky blue nail polish (which as usual, you can buy now for a limited time. Click HERE). Although I found a few of the pieces a little overdone, the finale of printed trenches was colourful and playful. Burberry also partnered with Youtube this season to give online show viewers additional content. Click on the icon in the top left corner of the video below to customise your view.

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Pitstop at The Delaunay… a good (and rather beautiful) hideaway between shows
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Over at Somerset House I managed to steal a half hour to look at the NEWGEN designers on the stands, sponsored by Topshop. It’s always great to see Claire Barrow’s hand illustrated pieces up close. I love her uncompromising vision and how she manages to make her work both personal yet commercial.  I also got a closer look at Ashley Williams’ teen-centric collection, having seen her show the day before. She’s collaborating with Coca-Cola for SS15 with some amazing jewellery and this knit top (which says Coke in Chinese)…

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CLAIRE BARROW
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I took the evening off from show-going and blogging to indulge in a two-hours-plus film screening of Malcolm McLaren: The Anarchist Generation. It’s long but it’s full of gems, especially McLaren himself telling stories of his life (how true they are, who knows…) plus some amazing old footage of early Westwood shows. I think we’re ready to see shows like this and this again…

London Fashion Week SS15 highlights: Day 3

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

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Yesterday was my favourite LFW day in terms of the designers I love. Preen, Toga, Topshop and Margaret Howell all rank high on my radar.

Preen veered off on an ultra-bright tangent compared to the monochrome minimalism of some of the shows we’ve seen so far. I liked the starker, print-free pieces, especially these jackets with the primary-coloured zips…

PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI
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Topshop Unique
was a celebration of young Brits-on-staycation – think seaside stripes and dreamy going-out dresses, no doubt likely to be worn irl with a parka jacket and trainers. The show itself was energy packed with a make-up station, the #topshopwindow Instagram wall and a pop-up cafe laden with sweet, tooth-aching snacks.

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Essential pre-show reading: Topshop mag and Suzy Menkes’ daily free-sheet (is this the start of Suzy Menkes, the brand?)
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I have to say how much easier the presentations are to navigate than actual shows. No waiting around, no seating plan dramas, no camera-phone rage – everyone finds their spot, takes their pics, perhaps enjoys a drink or two and possibly even a chat with the designer. Toga’s shows are great, with girls posing patiently on podiums. The collection was so good, inspired by fragmented mirrors and abstract paintings. The mirror jewellery and string-mesh bags were my standouts…

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Margaret Howell
changed things up slightly this season with a new stylist and a new venue, showing at the Rambert dance company on the South Bank, as part of London Open House Weekend (a public architecture initiative that lets you peek into private buildings). The show gave us Howell’s vision of summer in the city – a uniform of perfect grey knits, loose T-shaped dresses, pleated skirts with socks and sandals plus the odd flirty bustier or two. It didn’t reinvent the wheel but you did sense a different energy. Incidentally Burberry Prorsum also looks to be switching things up with a new style of playful invitation. Will we see a new show format today?

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In amongst the show-going, brands like to shoehorn plenty of extra curricular activity. I didn’t need much persuading to check out Jimmy Choo‘s new three-storey Bond Street townhouse. It’s a slick operation with all sorts of VIP touches including a bespoke customisation service in which you can chose your own leather and have your initials stamped on your undersoles. Well why wouldn’t you?

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Mulberry opted for a showroom appointment system instead of a show and I have to say, I preferred this celeb-free zone. The showroom was jam packed with flowers, a tribute to Kew Gardens (if you follow me on Instagram, you’ll remember the invite…). My favourite piece was the Delphie Duo bag, a minimalist transformer bag that unfolds to reveal a swappable outer cover in a different colour.

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Rejina Pyo is a recently discovered name that I like very much (top and below). Her geometric shapes, bright primary colours and slashed knees in her skirts and dresses are very intruging! One to keep an eye on for sure…
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Samsung and Apple go head to head for the fashion pound

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

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If there was any doubt that phones are now fashion accessories, last week rammed that thought home. With Apple‘s major unveiling during New York Fashion Week with key fashion press in the front row and Natalie Massenet representing (will she be selling the new Apple devices on Net-a-Porter?), the fashionisation of our everyday tech gear is indisputable.

OK the big fuss was all around the smart Watch but the general consensus among the fashion contingent is it ain’t all that (yet). Continue reading

London Fashion Week SS15 highlights: Day 2

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

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London designers are known for their youthful experimentation but they’ve becoming equally adept at delivering polished wearability. Day two’s highlights included Lucas Nascimento’s sheer, precision-cut layers (above and below), Joseph’s serene sportswear and Whistles’ luxe leather separates.

Even J.W Anderson surprised with extreme commerciality on his catwalk (combined with clever creativity of course), giving us that spring perennial ‘nautical chic’ his way, involving strategic cut-outs and rope details all accessorised with fetishy floppy leather hats. Continue reading

London Fashion Week SS15 highlights: Day 1

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Shrimps-LFW-ss15

London Fashion Week kicked off with two buzzy new names. Faustine Steinmetz showed as part of New Gen with her first presentation, a clever exploration of couture and branding, set in the suitably arty ICA.

I’m so impressed by this young designer, whose obsession for hands-on labour and figuring things out results in mind boggling textile experiments. On display were denim-look jackets of polyester styled out like Shibori (“It’s not Shibori at all! I actually handpainted it, I just like that look,” Steinmetz told me), and a jeans-n-jacket combo made from unravelled layers of upcycled denim creating a tufty fringe effect. Continue reading

Ask Alison: Digital runways and the evolution of live-streaming at NYFW & LFW

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Here’s the latest ‘Ask Alison’ post from retail expert and DRG contributor, ALISON BISHOP who unpacks her physical-meets-digital findings so far from the SS15 fashion show season…

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The fashion show is dead. Long live the interactive, digital brand experience now taking place during New York and London fashion weeks, where consumers, influencers and their collective social media clout are the preferred global audience. Continue reading

Shinola watches arrive at Net-a-Porter

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

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Shinola klaxon! Yummy new Shinola watches have just landed at Net-a-Porter. The Detroit-based brand is getting a lot of attention at the mo for its leather goods, paper goods, watches and own-brand cola (called Shinola Cola obvs).

I like the classic understatement of these. They’re just masculine enough, without looking overly butch. I like the size too. I have tiny wrists so I can’t get away with those gigantic dinner plate watches that everyone loves. You can buy them HERE.

Nike – just did it

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

Mr DRG is quite the trainer connoisseur, having spent far too much time and money on them during the first wave of sneaker-freakery back in the day. Here’s his guest post on his latest Nike fixation…

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I love the way that Nike has been updating classics from its archives over the last few years. Not such a stange statement you might think, but this comes from someone whose mantra is a fixed, ‘don’t mess with a classic, it’s classic for a reason’. Yet Nike is pulling it off, time and time again. Continue reading

Rodarte’s perfect mix for SS15

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

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I can’t normally abide hanky hems, but I’m making an exception for these divine mermaid silhouettes at Rodarte. Also… those bonkers boots!

As usual, the casting, hair, makeup and attitude is spot on. The classic all-American make-up and hair with those busy outfits. The pierced eyebrows!. Continue reading

Try it now: post-summer beauty

Posted on by Disneyrollergirl

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How good was the beauty look in my last editorial shoot? Make-up artist Jessica Mejia nailed the post-summer contemplative mood perfectly with highlit cheekbones, sepia lids and well, that’s pretty much it. She kindly wrote down her how-to (below) and while the ingredients list isn’t lengthy, it’s all down to technique. Take the time to blend well, using the best quality brushes you have. And if you want to buy any of the products, they’re linked below…

Start by cleaning your skin and prepping it with a rich moisturiser.

Apply a tinted moisturiser or a light foundation such as MAC Face and Body.

Perfect your complexion by using a concealer under the eyes, Clinique Airbrush Concealer is a good choice.

For a glowing skin look, apply a highlighter along the cheekbones such as Lancôme Éclat Miracle.

Use MAC Cream Colour Base in Mid-Tone Sepia all over the eyelid and along the bottom lashes, followed by a soft layer of NARS eyeshadow in Surabaya applied with a blender brush.

Fill in the brows with either powder or a fine eyebrow pencil such as MAC Eye Brows, then brush them up and gel them into place by using an eyebrow gel.

Curl the lashes and apply a soft coat of mascara.

To enhance the fresh glowing look, dab highlighter such as MAC Cream Colour Base in Shell in the inner corner of your eyes as well as just above your lips in the cupid’s bow area to give your lips a fuller appearance.

Keep the lips natural and hydrated just by applying your favourite lip balm.

Finish off with a small amount of loose translucent powder down the T-zone, applied with a brush to get rid of any shine.

CREDITS:
Photography: Vanessa Jackman
Styling: Navaz Batliwalla/Disneyrollergirl.net
Hair and make-up: Jessica Mejia at Stella Creative Artists
Model: Claudia Gould at The Hive Management
Location: MIH Jeans
Dress: & Other Stories

See the whole shoot HERE

 

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